The above photo was taken overlooking Ayacucho, Peru, late November, 2017. Ayacucho was my final destination on a journey through Peru that Gringos rarely take. As you can see, Ayacucho is a sprawling city of red rooftops resembling Cusco. An attribute of Ayacucho is that there are so few tourists there, and they are generally visitors from Lima. The city is known by locals as Huamanga.
I am already getting ahead of myself! Let me start at the beginning of my trip, which could be characterized as "the road less traveled." October 4, 2017 I headed out of Cuenca on a bus to Loja. I arrived at the Loja Terminal Terrestre about 4 pm.
Late afternoon it was pouring rain. I spent the night at a hotel the taxi cab driver told me about. So glad I didn't have reservations for a hostel that night. Downtown Loja was completely torn up during my stay there, which I did not realize. Any downtown hotel would have been inconvenient. Often, not making reservations ahead of time is the best plan!
The hotel was comfortable, and the cost was $10 for the night. The hotel staff ordered out a dinner of pollo asado at my request. I was starving, not having eaten during the whole day. The $5 meal of half a chicken, salad & fries was delicious. I recommend staying at the Hostal Virgen del Cisne.
Before checking in at the hostal however, I bought my bus ticket for the next morning. The bus I needed was headed for the Peruvian border. I needed to leave by 6 am. I talked to various bus companies that offered the trip I was looking for. Their departure times differed from the early morning time I needed.
OK, this is one of the most significant aspects of my travels I think others can benefit from. Bus company employees never said to me, "Talk to so and so bus company. They offer the trip at the time you need." Bus employees simply suggest that the traveler take the ride their company offers, even if it leaves at midnight.
It is up to the traveler to ask at every window until locating the bus & the time needed. Then you can pay for your bus ticket. I was lucky to find the bus company offering a ride directly to Las Balsas, at the Ecuadorian Border. The bus was scheduled to depart at 5 am. The company is Sur Oriente. Their window is at the rear of the Loja Terminal Terrestre.
A cab driver took me to the Loja bus station, and I arrived well before 5 am when the bus left Loja. The best blog I read about how to get to Chachapoyas was https://shoefry.com/2011/11/22/ecuador-to-peru-the-long-way-around/
Even though the Shoefry blog entry is somewhat dated, the information it provides was highly useful. These authors took the same bus I took to La Balsa. The difference is that now the bus goes all the way to the border of Peru at La Balsa (previously it only went to Zumba).
After arrival at the border of Ecuador about noon, I crossed a bridge & went through customs easily.
Then I grabbed a collectivo to the town of San Ignacio, Peru.
The next morning I caught a collectivo that left for Jaen at 6 am. This trip was one of the most beautiful of my Peruvian travels. Some bloggers recommend crossing the border into Peru and spending the night in Jaen, a much larger town. However, the early morning ride to Jaen was so stunningly beautiful that it was well worth staying in a smaller town. Unfortunately, I did not take photos during this trip.
Upon arrival to Jaen, I took a moto taxi across town, then a collectivo to Bagua Grande. This trip took two hours. Then I caught a moto taxi across Bagua Grande to the ETSA bus station. The Bagua Grande station was directly across the street from the ETSA bus station, so no moto taxi is needed. The joke was on me! The driver didn't charge me for the ride though.
I took a combi (a bus which seats 12 people) to Chachapoyas. That trip was 2 hours.
We arrived at the Chachapoyas Bus Terminal about 3 pm.
I caught a cab to the Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostel, where I stayed an entire week. My feelings about this location were mixed. As one young German man remarked, the Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostel is not great hostel. However, I inquired into many other hotels while in Chachapoyas, & none were very good. Employees are generally unwelcoming, and sometimes hostels are costly as well.
It's as if Chachapoyas would like to be a world wide tourist destination now that the Kuelap Fortress is becoming better known (and the teleférico has been constructed), but doesn't know how. Services in Chachapoyas are generally over-priced, and the attitude toward visitors not very friendly.
The owner of the Backpackers Hostel, José, is an ambitious young man who appears welcoming. He seemed to me financially motivated, and not very worldly. For example, he markets kitchen privileges widely. Yet I found the kitchen in his hostel is sorely lacking in cookware.
During my stay, José took the only usable (albeit teflon) frying pan in the kitchen home with him, saying that residents ruined his cookware. This pan was not great in the first place, and probably cost about $4. Beat up aluminum pots & pans were the only cookware available in his kitchen.
Jose's wife Dona is friendlier than Jose, and also handles the financial transactions between guests and the hostel. Such a husband & wife division of labor is typical of hostels I've stayed at. I would say that marketing is the strong suit of the Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostel. Service--not so much.
There were many lively & well traveled young Europeans staying at the Chachapoyas Backpacker's Hostel. However, the hostel lacked a shared communal space, so conversations took place in hallways or on the way down the stairs. The hostel was not the friendly place one would hope for.
Furthermore, staff (Nuri & Alex) at the Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostel did not seem happy, nor were they welcoming. Once I was attacked by a dog while hanging clothing on the line (on the 3rd floor), and no one seemed the least concerned.
I was told the dog owner was a construction worker at a neighboring project. He simply shrugged his shoulders when I confronted him about the dog. I learned to carry a whistle in my pocket during my stay at the Chachapoyas Backpackers Hostel.
Chachapoyas itself is a beautiful colonial city. The following is a photograph I took of schoolboys on their return from classes.
Chachapoyas boasts a beautiful central plaza.
I enjoyed few meals at Fusions, a pretentious & pricey little restaurant on the central plaza.
The eatery which offered the best value in town was a vegetarian restaurant named Eden. I didn't get a photo of this place.
OK, let's move right along to my day's trip at the Kuélap Fortress, which is the primary tourist destination of the area. The cost for my tour was about $20 or 60 Peruvian Soles. The trip was well done, and much less expensive than going to Machu Picchu. I enjoyed Machu Picchu yet have always yearned to visit the Kuélap Fortress in Northern Peru. Only 1% of Peru's tourists visit the many ruins of Northern Peru!
Kuélap is often called the Machu Picchu of Northern Peru. Located 10, 000 feet above sea level, this citadel full of ruins and stone walls is the legacy left by the Chachapoyas, also known as "Warriors of the Cloud." The people of Chachapoyas were a Pre-Incan culture living in the cloud forests of what is known as the Amazonas Region of Peru. Even if it is known as a fortress, it might be more fitting to call Kuélap a walled city, because it contained civil, religious & domestic buildings as well as military ones. It is believed that Kuélep was built during the 6th century AD.
The city of Kuélap consists of 12 sites and 400 circular buildings. Only some of these buildings are shown in this blog post. The difficult access to Kuélap has resulted in little tourism. However, this may change, because the Peruvian government recently built a cable car or teleférico to Kuélap.
Below, our tour Guide Jeffrey, describes the layout of Kuélap Fortress.
Some of the trails we hiked during the day were steep.
Our group wandered through a labryinth of seemingly forgotten ruins & temples. We stopped to enjoy breathtaking views of majestic mountains & lush valleys.
I especially enjoyed the two sisters seen below. Patricia, the sister on the left, lives in Chachapoyas. Her sister, Manuela, was visiting from Lima.
Not only did I take an all day tour of Kuélap Fortress while in Chachapoyas, the very next day I visited the Karajia Sarcophigi & Quiocta Caverns. This all day trip also cost about $20. The day proved very physically demanding, although it was highly enjoyable. Two of my companions were also on the Kuélap Fortress tour. They are seen above, and they are Sara Huerta & Lucía Velázquez. Both live in Lima and were in Chachapoyas for the weekend.
The hike to reach the sacarphogi was a long and downward march. I was thrilled to return on a horse. Reviewing the photos, I can see my expression is much happier than that of the horse or his handlers, and of course I feel embarrassed. The cost was about $5 for the ride, or 15 soles.
The photos below are taken of our afternoon sloshing through the Quiocta Cavern for several hours.
Lucía tried to help me with my pant leg that wasn't in the boot & I regretted saying it didn't matter, because of being covered in mud later on. The other pant leg was protected.
Pre-Incan Burial sites in the Quiocta Cavern were impressive.
I marveled at the amazing subterranean formations of stalagmites and stalactites.
It was a thrill to emerge from the Quiocta Cavern into the light of the afternoon.
Below I'm seen with our Guide and Driver carrying all of our muddied boots.
Next are Lucía Valázquez and Sara Huerta, my companions for much of the day.
Our Driver makes a final stop at the restaurant where we ate lunch, and the ladies there cheerfully cleaned all the mud off of our boots. There was so much (unseen) support for our group.
The best day of my week in Chachapoyas was at the Emanuel Physical Therapy Center, recommended by Lucía Velázquez. A young man named Ruben massaged my whole body. He gave special attention to my foot, and my sprained ankle. Ruben applied magnets, electrical current and ice to the foot. He manipulated the foot in different directions & massaged it deeply.
The whole massage took almost 2 hours and cost 45 soles, or $15. I bought a brace for my ankle and it cost 15 Soles or $5. Ruben showed me incredible kindness & I felt deeply soothed. Ruben told me that the Emanuel Physical Therapy Center has only been open six months and the therapists are busy all day long. Ruben is from Lima and he is the fourth of a family of six children. He is the only Physical Therapist in his family.
The next tour I took was on my own, to the Museum at Leymebamba. I enjoyed a wonderful day yet realized after counting my expenses, about 45 soles ($15) I hadn't saved much money. The tour to both the Revash Mauseleom and Leymebamba Museum cost just 60 soles, or just $5 more. Trips offered by local companies are a good deal, except that sometimes I'd just rather be on my own.
The Museum, funded by an Austrian archeological association, is an effete structure in an otherwise impoverished part of Peru. It displays more than 200 mummies and their burial offerings recovered in 1997 from the Laguna de los Cóndores.
The best part of my trip to the museum was the mototaxi ride there & back.
The views on the 15 minute ride each way were like the one below:
The Leymebamba town square is attractive.
I booked my trip to Cajamarca 2 days in advance assuring myself the opportunity to sit in the best seat of the combi, the one next to the driver. Having read that this trip is one of the most beautiful of Northern Peru, I wanted to enjoy the views. The combi left Chachapoyas 5:30 am & cost 40 soles.
We stopped to eat at a restaurant in the mountains, where our meal was cooked over a wood fire.
Below the road is seen approaching Celendín, a city about 2 hours from Cajamarca. Little did I know during the reverie of our trip everything would change abruptly in Celendín.
The Driver, for whom I had developed a fondness, wordlessly hopped out of the van & into another one. Another driver, someone who came across to me as rough & arrogant, took over. His sidekick, a handsome young (Gay) man, sat next to him in the middle of the front row. I no longer enjoyed my previous role of being second to the Driver.
Much to my horror, the two men enjoyed a strong alliance, including peeing in front of the bus while the rest of us sat waiting for the trip to resume. The spectacle of men peeing in full view on roads & in parks is familiar in Latin America. None the less, it is one which I have never appreciated.
On arrival to Cajabamba, I asked a moto taxi driver to take me for a ride to the hostel where I had reserved an evening, the Chakra Runa. He couldn't locate the hostel. I provided him with the phone number and the Hostel's manager gave him proper directions. Thankfully, he came out to greet me.
Although the Chakra Runa receives high marks on various websites, my experience there was less than thrilling. I left after 3 days.
I ordered breakfast the 1st day of my stay & Herman, the Owner's son served heavily salted scrambled eggs with instant coffee. I never ordered breakfast at the hostel again.
Furthermore, the hostel is located far from the city center. It is not easy to locate. There are 2 parts to the hostel. The larger part seemed to me dark & dismal. This is the part of the hostel in which most guests stay. I did enjoy meeting some of the visitors there, including one couple who had bicycled throughout Latin America. I stayed in the smaller part of the hostel, in a private room.
The owner's son flirted with the young German travelers staying in the smaller part of the hostel, ignoring me. Herman invited the young women out clubbing with him.
I understood the attraction Herman had to these charming young European women, yet do not consider it good manners to be so exclusive. I am letting other more mature travelers know I do not recommend staying at the Chakra Runa Hostel.
I stayed for the rest of the week, 4 days, at the Hostel Los Gladiolos, which I heartily recommend. The cost was 35 Soles per night, which was less expensive than the 40 Soles I paid at Chakra Runa.
The employees at the Hostal Los Gladiolos were especially wonderful.
Below are photos of the town square in the beautiful Colonial City of Cajamarca, a much bigger city than Chachapoyas.
Cajamarca is known as the City of Gold and Blood. Here the Conquistadores of Francisco Pizarro captured the Incan Atahualpa. Despite having fulfilled his part in collecting a gold ransom asked of the Incans, Atahualpa was killed.
From that point onward, the conquistadors drafted the city in the traditional Spanish way. Today the Colonial constructions of the Cathedral, the church of San Francisco, Belen and La Recoleta, mansions, and monuments are preserved.
I took several tours while in Cajamarca, the first was to the ruins of Cumbe Mayo. These ruins are 11,000 years older than those at Machu Picchu or Kuélap.
Built by an advanced pre-Inca society around 1500 BC, the Cumbe Mayo translates into "thin river" (in Quechua). It is one of the oldest man-made structures in Latin America.
Although the stone forests and ancient ruins of pre-Incan society give the area a beautiful & spiritual dimension, Cajamarca's history is tragic. Spanish forces slaughtered Incans here, thousands of years after Cumbe Mayo was constructed.
Volcanic pillars, or stone forests, suddenly appear from the landscape at Cumbe Mayo. They contrast sharply with the flat, grass-covered plains around Cajamarca. The erosive forces of wind & rain likely carved out the pillars.
Many of the pillars have taken on shapes resembling humans. Their impressive & rare geological formations have been identified by some as the shapes of monks form part of a procession. For this reason, this stone forest located in Cumbe Mayo is known as Los Frailones (The Friars).
One of the main attractions of Cumbe Mayo is the aqueduct. This is a canal carved in volcanic rock to divert water from the hills to cultivation fields & a large reservoir.
There were few Gringos visiting Carjamarca. Most of the tourists are from Lima. I was surprised by the extent to which they are involved with their cell phones, frequently taking "Selfies."
Below our wonderful Guide and a member of the tour pause under a volcanic ledge.
The following day, I took a tour to Granja Porcón, an animal refuge financed by the Jehovahs Witnesses. During this trip I met the women from Lima with whom I enjoyed the next few days.
The tour started with a stop at a community known as Huambocancha, where marmolina, and granite are carved into pieces for sale. This is the part about Peruvian tours I came to dislike. In fact, I stopped going on these tours. There were so many stops in which travelers were expected to make purchases. While I never bought anything, visitors from Lima were surprisingly spendy.
In my experience visitors from Lima were naive, too. On one tour all participants were asked to fill out a survey. The questionnaire asked what their income was, and how much money they brought with them to spend during their stay in Cajamarca. I responded "No es su asunto" or "It's none of your business!"
The Porcón farm is an agricultural and cattle cooperative surrounded by a pine forest, and is ideal for spending a day out of the city. I didn't know the Granja Porcón was a Jehovahs Witness endeavor, but found out after viewing many hundreds of bible verses in route to the farm. Our hike around the area was lovely. The animal refuge consists of vicuñas, deer, spotted cats, bears, a lion, ostriches, monkeys, & eagles.
I felt special empathy for this cougar as it lolled around on its back close to the front of its cage.
Next we visited the Pre-Incan archeological burial site at Ventanillas de Otuzco. This is an important Necropolis, excavated from volcanic rock. Apparently various Pre-Incan cultures preferred burying their dead high in the mountains, where it was thought their remains would be better preserved.
I became fond of this trio of sisters:
A correspondent I sent this photo to asked me if this was a photo with my new "Beau." Ha ha. Have to laugh at this one. Well, he really is kind of a cute guy. And he was a good Guide too. I am not much for sharing my life with a "Beau," however, and am the first to admit it.
The group of women below were huddled closely while they took a "Selfie." I found them delightful.
Our tour group visited nearby botanical gardens.
We visited a dairy farm (the idea was that we were there to buy stuff), where a truck driver needed help pulling his vehicle out of a waterway. I found this spectacle much more fun than the dairy farm.
The next morning I enjoyed breakfast with my new Lima friends, including several of their children. These women all knew each other while attending the same high school, and have stayed in touch since. They were staying at the Hostel Los Gladiolos & I moved to the 2nd floor, where they stayed!
We shared several meals together. Below we are all eating breakfast:
Michelle Melzar Lizarrada, ringleader of the bunch, & the woman who was responsible for including me, had a group photo taken. Here we are, gathered beneath the steps of Hostal Los Gladiolos.
I was sad to see Michelle go.
The next day I visited the Baños del Inca, where I enjoyed the thermal waters several days. Some posts online have said the Baths are not as clean as they could be. My experience was wonderful. Each visit only cost 3 Soles, or about $1. All of the employees were helpful. I kept going back!
One day I had a massage at the Baños del Inka. The cost was 20 soles for a 20 minute massage. That massage lasted exactly 20 minutes! However the masseuse didn't waste a second, and she worked hard. She worked only on my back. At a sole per minute, the massage was worth my while.
Below is the private hot tub, which one can fill to capacity at the temperature desired. Persons are supposed to be in pairs, but I went several times alone. The staff person out front makes the decision whether to admit solo travelers.
Next I decided to take an all day trip to Shorey, via the mountain town of Huamachuco. Having read a bicyclist's blog about pedaling through this part of Peru several years ago, I've always wanted to visit Huamachuco. The bicyclist remarked on the great beauty of the area. I've always been curious about the area surrounding the mine at Quiruvilca, and how the mine has affected Huamachuco.
I awoke at the crack of dawn and took a taxi to a location where I could catch a combi to Cajabamba. I ended up waiting a whole hour before the driver had filled his car with passengers, a not uncommon occurrence in Peru. What a frustrating start to the day. Americans dislike waiting-- I'm no exception! So much that happens while traveling in Peru is "hurry up...and wait."
The photo below is taken of the Cajabamba Town Square. This was the first good photo I managed to take that morning.
These Drivers enjoyed joking around when I asked about a ride to Huamachuca. It's a good thing I recover from frustrations & disappointments quickly & am always ready to share a good laugh!
The cost of a combi trip from Cajabamba to Huamachuco was 10 soles, or about $3. It was the best deal in a day of traveling that proved expensive. Later I realized round trip traveling costs were 120 soles or about $40.
The views from Cajabamba to Huamachuco are so gorgeous they brought me to tears. I've always wanted to go to Shorey via Huamachuco & I am glad I finally did.
I had to wait awhile for the combi to leave Huamacho for Shorey. And the cost was 30 soles. The driver wanted more but I was able to bargain for a lower price because of not going all the way to Trujillo, as the other passengers were.
Yet contamination of the rivers from the mine at Quiruvilca was evident.
Previously I wrote about the mine at Quiruvilca and my visit to Shorey at https://viajesporamericadelsur.blogspot.com/2014/10/
I always wanted a photo of the company store at Shorey, and finally I took one!
The housing compound where I lived as a child seemed startlingly vulnerable. I was here 3 years ago, accompanied by the Chauffer, Antero Galán, who drove me to Shorey from Trujillo.
It was very worthwhile coming to Shorey through Huamacucho. I saw how truly small and vulnerable the gated community of corporate executives really is.
The only house in this community now occupied is that of Southern Peaks Mining CEO, Adolfo Vera. And he, or his guests, stay here rarely.
Below is the automobile of the Corporate Chauffer, Anterio Galán. Fortunately, we recognized one another, which helped Eduardo at the gate know who I was, & that I had been at the mine previously. I let him know that I wanted to take a few photos of the housing community.
Southern Peaks Mining Company Employee Ricardo Villa was kind enough to open the gates & permit entrance into the community.
The house below is next to that of CEO Adolfo Vera. I am not sure who lived there in the early 1950's when my family was at Shorey. I'm sure my mother would be able to tell me if she were alive.
Here I am standing in front of Adolfo Vera's house, wearing the hard hat loaned me.
This is the house I think we lived in when I was a child. I wish my mother were alive so I could ask her. It's not the same as photos I saw when younger. Yet this is the whole reason I've spent this day coming to Shorey-- to take photos of this house.
This petroleum truck was in front when we emerged from the housing complex.
One of many fences closing off mining property can be seen in this photo. There were fences for miles before we finally reached the mining complex, warning people to stay off the property.
Bet the highway sign "3N" would bring back memories for my parents if they were still alive! They must have traveled this highway so many times.
The contamination and the beauty of the mountains surrounding the Quiruvilca Mine are evident.
Miraculously, about 4pm, I caught a combi back to Huamachuco and a bus to Cajamarca-- which arrived 11 pm. My long day ended when I fell asleep at my hostel in Cajamarca at midnight. What a day! Yet looking back on these photos I can see it was an experience well worth my while.
Two days later I left for Trujillo, a six hour trip that cost about $15.
Trujillo was not the beautiful city I remembered. The unprecedented flooding of March 2017, due to months of rain, inundated the city. Trujillo's Plaza de Armas, which I remembered as the most beautiful of any city in Latin America, is under construction.
Much of the city was under construction. The cevicherias I'd remembered with fondness had disappeared. It seemed the only restaurants that survived the deluge were expensive & traditional, the kinds of places I generally avoid. I'm glad I saw Trujillo 3 years ago, when it was gorgeous. Peruvians are working hard to bring Trujillo back:
I stayed at the Residencial Vanini, where I stayed last time I visited Trujillo. There was a sweet neighborhood park, and a little restaurant at which I ate lunch (for 7 soles, or about $2) daily.
Sunday, October 22, the government conducted a census, so all stores in Trujillo were closed. For the first time, I missed the junk food shops on every corner. Fortunately Kika, owner of the Residencial Vanini, let me know ahead all would be closed, so I bought a take out dinner the previous day.
Monday, newspapers and local broadcasts were filled with angry protests by the populace. It turned out that no census was conducted. Everyone stayed at home the whole day for no reason. The government failed in its promise to conduct a census of the population.
Surprisingly (to me), Residencial Vanini is located several blocks from Wong's Grocery Store (on Calle Larco), which I've only been able to access while in Miraflores, Lima.
I confess to having purchased a few items at this high end market.
I grabbed a bus and went to the nearby coastal town of Huanchaco, and walked on the wharf.
Honestly, I think if I were ever to return to Trujillo, I'd stay in Huanchaco. Huanchaco seemed much more upbeat than I remembered. I hate to say it, but Trujillo was depressing. Maybe it's because the last time I was there, I could hardly believe that I was in the town of Trujillo. It is a city my mother spoke of in glowing terms when I was a child. I detail my experiences of Trujillo in another blog entry, https://viajesporamericadelsur.blogspot.com/2014/10/
Trujillo recently survived a disaster of epic proportions--and the suffering of many of its residents is still very evident. The international press barely blinked at the flooding Peru experienced last winter. Many people in Ecuador were scarcely aware of all the destruction that happened in cities like Trujillo & Piura, Peru. The world is changing so fast in so many ways yet most are unaware of it.
The reed boats of Huanchuco are often called cabillitos de totora, or little reed horses.
I toured Chan Chan once again, although I was there just 3 years ago.
The Tour group stopped for lunch at a high priced eatery I refused to dine at. Instead I enjoyed a delicious almerzo for 8 Soles. The restaurant staff was kind, the food delicious, & I met fascinating people. I spent an hour with a wonderful young couple from Spain. They were studying Environmental Engineering in Trujillo & living in Huanchaco.
How beautiful these Incan Gods appear in Trujillo's museums. I posted a similar photo the last time I blogged about Trujillo.
The Lady of Cao was discovered by Peruvian Archeologists funded by Germany, in 2006. Her burial site is located about 45 minutes north of Trujillo at the El Brujo Complex. Apparently she died of childbirth while in her twenties.
Below is the Museum of the Lady of Cao. I find the architecture of the museum sterile. Yet the Moche people lived close to the natural rhythms of the ocean, & in great splendor, too.
The richness of the burial site and the presence of weapons suggest that the Lady of Cao may have been a Moche Ruler. She may have governed the Chicama District of Northern Peru. Prior to her discovery, it was believed that only men held high rank among the Moche people.
I stayed a whole week in Trujillo, which was too long. But I made an important decision during the week, and that was to continue traveling through the Peruvian Andes rather than return to Ecuador. It would have been so easy to travel north from Trujillo through Chiclayo then to Mancora and across the border to Ecuador. I still had energy for adventure. So I decided to travel the Peruvian Andes.
I wanted to avoid Lima, because of spending time in Peru's capital city previously. I enjoyed Lima, but a month there was long enough. I planned a route that included Huaraz, Huánuco, Huancayo, Huancavelica, and Ayacucho--places Gringos rarely visit!
I booked a plane flight from Ayacucho to Piura for late November so I wouldn't have to return to Northern Peru via all of the same bus routes to get to Ayacucho, which is not that far from Cusco.
In total, I only spent one hour in Lima, & that was the time in the airport waiting for a plane to Piura. My plans worked out marvelously well. So staying too long in Trujillo while planning the second month of my travels was OK.
Next Blog update will be all about the month's travels in November, and they are the best yet. Thank you for reading this update, and look forward to catching up soon.
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