Here I am in a small town near Huancayo. I loved Hancayo & spent 10 days there! Yet there was so much else to my trip. Let me start where I left off, in Trujillo. I took a Linea bus to Huaraz. In the town of Chimbote I got off the bus for a minute to buy a snack & use the restroom. I walked outside just in time to see my bus driving off without me! I'd left my small mochilla sitting on my seat. This was the first time in 5 years of bus travel that I've actually been left behind. Many times I've sat for interminable amounts of time while bus drivers took long breaks. This time the bus was on a tight schedule. One bus employee chewed me out sternly. I gave him plenty of lip.
The bus employees were extremely fast to act, and called the bus driver to let him know I'd been left behind. Immediately I was put into a small car owned by the Linea bus company. The driver whisked me across town where we intercepted the bus. I boarded the bus meekly, waving at the driver. He didn't wave back. The man who sat in the seat next to mine said he'd told the bus driver I was missing. The bus driver told the man he would wait for the company's call. Later, when we stopped for a late almuerzo, I thanked the bus driver. He nodded impassively & continued eating.
The Artesanraju Hostel in Huaraz was outstanding! Not only was the bed comfortable, but the breakfasts were wonderful. The owner of the hostel, Scheler, was a tour operator. I believe this tour business was his primary source of income. He was a competent business person & knew what visitors from other countries like. His employees, especially Ronald, were terrific.
Scheler was a little short tempered at times, but I didn't let that get to me. The other guests at the hostel were from Brazil, Chile & Argentina. It was great having breakfast together & getting to know the visitors. I also met a few Canadians & Germans.
Huaraz was the last town I visited on this trip which had much familiarity with visitors from other countries. Employees of hotels I stayed at in Huánuco, Huancayo & Ayacucho seemed to have no background in customer service what so ever. I was surprised at myself & how irritated I felt.
The cost was 25 Soles a night, which I thought was grand. I only stayed 3 nights in Huaraz. it's a town for Germans and other people who love mountain climbing & extreme hikes. Not my thing. I took an all day tour for $20 that I enjoyed. A sweet family visiting from Lima" adopted" me, so I was happy.
The school in the photograph below was a landmark for the hostel, since it was nearby. I felt very safe in Huaraz. It was easy to walk from the Artesanraju Hostel to the central part of Huaraz.
I got a kick out of watching these indigenous women checking the out cell phones available.
I found a terrific restaurant in Huanuco, which I recommend highly. The food was not as expensive as in other restaurants recommended by blog writers, such as the California Café. The restaurant I liked is owned by a Peruvian who seems to care about his customers.
The name of the restaurant I enjoyed in Huaraz is El Chef Andino, located at Jr. Simon Bolivar 707 near Calle Centenario. The food was great, & it wasn't costly. The Chef even asked me about my travels and seemed interested. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of this restaurant.
On a tour, we stopped for ice cream in the town of Carhuaz. Some of the young visitors from Lima were very pushy. Lima is a city of the nouveau riche, in that many of its young consumers come from families without money to spend. I became annoyed when Limeños asked ice cream vendors many questions & wanted to taste everything before buying an ice cream cone.
We spent several hours in Yungay, the town that was nearly obliterated by a landslide after an earthquake in 1970 hit the region. Below is a photo of our group with our Guide.
Below is the family that "adopted" me. I especially loved the Aunt who is of course, younger than myself. She wisely said that I may be traveling on my own but that I am never alone! Her husband a Carpenter, said his work was "wood." They were both very fond of their nephew & niece. Their eight-year- old nephew was eager to converse in English. We ate almuerzo together that day.
At least 20,000 people were killed in Yungay. A neighboring village of Ranrahirca was obliterated.
In 1969, American archeologist David Lynch discovered remnants of a 10,000 year old culture in Yungay, marking Yungay as one of the greatest testimonials to American agricultural history.
Above is a photo of all that remains of the Cathedral at Yungay, built in the 1600's. It was demolished during the 1970 earthquake.
Encompassing much of the Cordillera Blanca is Huascarán National Park, home to condors and falcons as well as Huascarán, Peru's tallest mountain. Laguna Chinacocha, at Huascarán National Park, was very beautiful, even on a rainy day.
We stopped at a caramel shop in Caraz on the way back to Huaraz.
Flower stands near the hostel were stocked up in preparation for the Day of the Dead November 1.
The Huaraz cemetery was nearby. I saw families cleaning the grave sites of their loved ones.
Below are photos of the Baños de Termales of Monterrey. I enjoyed the bus ride there. These hot springs were beautiful, yet over priced. I found the Baños de Inca near Cajamarca so much more fun.
The beautiful Cordillera Blanca, world reknowned part of the Andes, is seen in the background of
this photo (taken from the hostel rooftop).
The bus from Huaraz went as far as La Union, and independent drivers took passengers to Huánuco, my next destination. The young man below was our driver, Grover. We each paid him 25 soles for the 9 hour trip. So he made 100 soles for a day's work, or about $30. That doesn't count wear & tear on the automobile he drove, or gasoline. His wages are still good compared to that of many Peruvians.
His cousin owned the small operation and Grover looked up to his cousin. I liked him because he laughed at my jokes. So did the 3 other passengers that were aboard. The long drive wasn't that bad. Of course, it helps that my Spanish is very good.
Two young women brought pets; one siamese cat & a small dog. I joked with our driver that perhaps he should adopt a small goat & I'd get a baby pig. That way we would all have "mascotas."
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We arrived in Huanuco late afternoon. The next day I visited the ruins at Kotosh. I paid a reduced rate of 3 Soles to enter the site because of being over 65 years of age.
The beautiful suspension bridge below links the ruins at Kotosh to a park by the river.
A team of Japanese Archeologists excavated the ruins at Kotosh in the early 1960's. I couldn't help but feel impressed with their commitment. The Ruins at Kotosh are a long way from Lima. And Huánuco is not, in my opinion, a very nice city. The area surrounding Huánuco is beautiful, however.
The region surrounding Kotosh is very fertile. The pre-Incan people of Peru seemed to always locate their cities in the most desirable of locations.
The Kotosh ruins are among the oldest of Peru, its inhabitants continuously spanning six historic periods. Kotosh people cultivated crops, built permanent settlements & multilevel ceremonial buildings as early as 2300 BC and up until about 1200 BC. Afterwards, the Huari (People of Warawillka) lived here. Most recently the area has been influenced by the Chavin culture.
The Manos Cruzadas, for which the ruins at Kotosh are best known, now reside in Lima. One arm is crossed in the opposite direction of the other. The crossed hands are thought to represent the duality expressed in Andean culture, much like the Yin & Yang express the duality of Asian culture. In Andean culture, the crossed hands represent the masculine & feminine, heaven & earth, light & dark.
The photo below is inside the Templo de los Manos Cruzadas. The niches in the temple are where the manos cruzadas resided before they were removed & taken to Lima's archeological museum.
The remains of several small temples are rom the most "recent" period of inhabitation at Kotosh.
Below is a photo of the Huánuco town center.
Next is Huánuco's most exclusive hotel. I did not stay there. I liked seeing the schoolboys walking in front of the hotel so took this photograph.
Below is where drivers headed to Cerro de Pasco solicit customers. I was told by Nacional bus company employees that paying a driver would be the only way I'd get to Cerro de Pasco. A moto taxi driver took me to meet these drivers, who came at me like a swarm of pirates.
These guys wanted $25 for a trip that would only cost $7 by bus. I surprised myself by how irritable I felt toward all of these young men, including the kind taxi driver who took me there.
This tower marks the throughway drivers take when leaving Huánuco & heading for Cerro de Pasco.
This large cathedral is in the center of Huánuco. It seems appropriate to include a photo of some nice architecture in this city, especially to those who love cathedrals.
In Huánuco I stayed one night at the Gran Hostal Miraflores, where I had a reservation. The young woman at the desk was the nastiest employee I've ever met. She told me there was no record of my reservation, even though Lucila Pino de Tarazona, owner of the hostel, had written to confirm. The employee took me to the worst room in the hostel, yet no other guests staying there! Later the owner did arrive, & she took me to a very nice room.
The nasty employee did me a big favor, however. I've never made reservations since our encounter. Previously, I would book for one night with Booking.com or some service that makes a fee for being the "middle man." That way I would know I had a place to go, & could pay on my own for the following days. After the experience in Huánuco, I've never reserved a hotel room & have done fine.
This hostel employee was obviously unhappy, and probably treated poorly by her employers. I only stayed one night at the Gran Hostal Miraflores before moving into the Hostel Sosa, which was around the corner. This hostel was not so great either. I hardly slept at all. Next time I'd pay more than 35 soles for a better room (with a better bed!).
I received helpful information from the employees, as well as the guests who stayed here. I learned there was a way to go to Huancayo in the day time. As I mentioned, the employees of the Nacional bus company had been telling me I needed to go at night. Guests at the Hostel Sosa said I could take a bus to Cerro de Pasco in the morning, then transfer to the bus headed for Huancayo.
I boarded the bus to Cerro de Pasco at 6 am in the morning. I took a combi from the Hotel Sosa to the same turnway where drivers leave for Cerro de Pasco as previously shown, & this bus was waiting.
Below we are transferring at Cerro de Pasco. I was able to buy snacks here for lunch.
Many years I've wanted to see Peru's most developed mines, at Cerro de Pasco. I was not disappointed. The whole town is decimated by the mines. The damage is shocking. The mines at Cerro de Pasco were the chief source of wealth for William Randolph Hearst and his family. They are now owned by Volcan Compañía Minera, a Peruvian corporation.
Latin America has seen its mining sector triple in the past ten years to 300 billion dollars. Peru's economy is among the fastest growing, and derives 1/6 of its gross domestic product from minerals. Cerro de Pasco is a 400 year old town that is literally being consumed by mining.
For many years the mines here ranked as Spain's greatest. Cerro de Pasco was the first city in Peru to be liberated from Spain. In the early 1900's, it was the second richest city of Peru. Fancy carriages & European consuls graced the streets of Cerro de Pasco.
In 1903 the world's highest railroad was cut 200 miles across the Andes. It brought in American owners of the Cerro de Pasco Mining Company, bought by United States citizens. Families including those of J. P. Morgan, Henry Clay Frick, Cornelius Vanderbilt, and Randolph Hearst made fortunes on the mine. Copper was king, yet silver was also produced. Zinc & lead are now the primary products of the mine, most of it destined for China.
It's humorous that Volcan posted a sign imploring residents not to litter the terrain, after mining corporations have totally decimated the area themselves.
Cerro de Pasco, at 4200 meters above sea level, is one of the highest cities in the world. Cerro de Pasco is also one of the worst lead poisoning clusters of the world. More than half of the area's children suffer from lead poisoning, which saps energy, impairs intelligence & causes convulsions.
I arrived in Huancayo on a bus owned by Nacional. As I keep saying, the employees of this company insisted that there were only rides available in the night from Huánuco to Huancayo. That's because they were talking about direct trips. I don't like riding buses at night, because of wanting to see views in the day time. Furthermore, thefts on Peruvian buses almost always occur at nights.
The first night in Huancayo I stayed at the Tambo Wasi Hostel & Sauna in a room overlooking the Parque de Sombreros. The cost was 35 soles. The room was delightful, but the hotel had its shortcomings. It was far away from the center of town, and there was no WIFI. I left after two days.
The first day in Huanchaco I took a tour for 40 soles. First we toured the town of Chupaca.
OK, I don't post too many photos of cathedrals. I am so tired of cathedrals, having seen so many. Yet I found this interior beautiful. Maybe I was just in the mood to appreciate it that day.
Of course, these musicians brought me much ecstasy.
Below is a statue of Andres Avelino Caceres, President of Peru three different times & hero of the War of the Pacific (1879-1883) against Chilean occupation.
Below is a monument I photographed, because it is very beautiful. Was this really in the town of Chupaca? I think it was.
These agricultural fields are at the base of the climb we took to reach the pre-Incan ruins at Arwaturi.
Our tour group climbed to the top of the ruins at Arawaturi. I might not have attempted this hike if it were not for the group. The climb was steep & encouragement helped. So this in itself was the value of the tour. The views of the entire Mantaro Valley below the ruins are exquisite.
The ruins are incredible. There are 22 constructions, and most were used to store food. Arwaturi is about 3 kilometers by 200 meters in size. The site was built by the Wanka (Huanca) civilization, pre-Incan people. It was built 800 years before Christ, and is therefore about 3000 years old.
The name Arwaturi comes from Quechua, and means "Burned Bones." Its orientation allowed it to receive the rays of the sun. The site's height guarded against would be attackers.
After fierce fighting, the Wanka or Huari people were conquered by Pachacuti (Quechua people of Cusco) & incorporated into the Inca Empire. This didn't happen until the 1440's, though.
Our group climbed aboard a boat on the beautiful Laguna Nahuínpuquiro. The Guide paddled the boat into the reeds. Afterwards, our boat was powered by a tough (and knowledgable) Indigenous woman. We each paid the woman 2 soles, & since there were 15 of us, she received about $10.
By the way, if you want to read a great blog about Huancayo by a bright young woman (who gives more details than I provide), I recommend https://blueskylimit.com/category/peru/huancayo/
Our group spent over an hour in the fascinating & historic town of Chongos Bajo.
We ate lunch at the wonderful Los Girasoles restaurant in Chilcha, a part of Huancayo.
The most popular dish on the menu is pachamanca, which includes pork chicharrón, chicken, potatoes, humitas, and fava beans. A kind young man from Lima sitting opposite me gave me some of his chicken & fava beans. I gave him trout chicharrón in return.
After a long drawn out time at the restaurant we went to the ruins at Wariwillka. Wariwillka means ancient sanctuary & its name comes from two Quechua words, Wari, meaning ancient, and Willka, meaning shrine. It existed between 900 and 1200 AD.
It is sometimes considered the place of origin of the Wanka (Huari) Nation. According to legend, the first couple of this ethnic group originated here. There are two large trees in the corner of its main building. The blood of those sacrificed was spilled here.
Some good natured young people got on their hands & knees then drank water from this spring. This was supposed to be an ancient purification ritual. I was tired of the tour so felt cynical by this time. Yet I could see the participation in this rite was really special.
We toured the museum and everyone was fascinated by a skeleton of a young woman who had been left for animals to eat. Supposedly she committed an awful crime, like having sex with the man she loved. Who knows. The museum was small but had lots of good pottery. We each paid 3 soles.
I went to the toilet & complained about paying 50 centavos for such a filthy toilet. The woman said only estranjeras complained. I was beyond caring. This was my last tour of Huancayo.
Despite my tiredness from the tour, I LOVED Huancayo. Huancayo and the Junín region represent a marvelous interchange of farmlands and agriculture, rich indigenous traditions, skilled master artisans & remnants from the Spanish Colonial Era.
I did a lot of touring on my own. One day I took a combi to San Jerónimo de Tunan thinking I'd like to buy a few pair of silver earrings. I looked at a lot of earrings, but didn't find any I wanted to buy. There was a pair of beautiful turquoise earrings styled in the way of pre-Incan ancestors, which cost 135 Soles. I really liked them! I wasn't going to pay that kind of money for a pair of earrings though.
There was another pair of earrings for 80 soles. They were beautiful. As a young woman I bought many pairs of expensive earrings. I've lost or given away so much jewelry that I have no desire to spend money on good earrings. The earrings in the 30 sole price range didn't interest me. I did buy earrings made out of a gourd fashioned into parrots, for 3 soles. So I didn't leave empty handed.
I very much enjoyed this restaurant. A kind woman took me on a cab to this restaurant. There are many restaurants in Ingenio selling trout. She said this one was the best. I enjoyed a delicious meal for 7 Soles here. Ad the environment was so beautiful. Plants were everywhere. Afterwards I walked down the hill, past a trout fishery, & caught a combi back to Huancayo.
The next day I learned about the tradition of mates burilados at Chochas Chico. I visited Huancayo's Parque de los Mates Burilados. Carved gourds are an art form practiced for thousands of years in Huancayo. Women (and men) grow up learning the craft. The park itself is very entertaining.
This woman explained the story told by the etchings on the particular gourd I bought, which cost 10 soles or about $3. The story was all about the daily life of an Indigenous woman in Huancayo.
It's probably too small for my head. I met an artisan selling hats in Huancayo, & he showed me the hat that actually fit. He wanted 50 soles, which I thought was too much. I paid half of that for the hat this woman sold me. She was so happy with her sale. And I was very happy too.
I bought a small hand carved gourds and coin purses from both of these Peruvian artists.
The woman below from whom I purchased a gourd, wanted my Ecuadorian hat. At first I hesitated to give it to her, because of thinking I would give it to Sheila, back in Huancayo. Thankfully, I did give the hat to this Indigenous Peruvian woman. She was very pleased, & gave me several coin purses in exchange for the hat. Giving this hat away was one of the happiest moments of my trip.
Loved this man's embroidered vest. I checked some out in shops but they cost about 70 soles. It would have been one more thing for me to carry back to Ecuador with me. I didn't need it. This gentleman looked very elegant, I thought. I don't know if he was the official or unofficial greeter to those entering the Museo, but I was glad he was there.
Someone recommended the overpriced restaurant below, probably because I am a Gringa. I ordered salmon & pasta with pesto sauce. The meal was pretty tasteless, and cost way too much.
I visited Hualhuas, and bought a sweater there. It's acrylic & cost 30 soles or about $10. I bought it because the woman showed me so many things I found uninteresting. Besides I was tired of wearing the same 2 outfits for 2 months. Did I mention that I pack lightly?
I regretted buying this sweater, because I dislike acrylic. Hualhuas had little to offer me, even though it is known for its knit wear. There are remarkable festivals here, yet none during my visit.
Yes, Huancayo boasts a shopping mall. It's called Plaza Real. I stood in front of the mall many days because that's where the combi vans pick up passengers who are heading for places outside the city.
Below is a photo of Sheila, a young woman who works at her family restaurant. Sheila promised me right away she would take me out to visit her grandmother, saying I would enjoy her home out in the country. I fell in love with Sheila, her mother, and with Aaron (shown in the first photo below), their wonderful employee.
Sheila, Zoila, & Aaron all worked at the restaurant 6 1/2 days a week, from 6 am to 10 pm. There were down times during the afternoon, when Sheila would pick up her son at school to take him home. She had a little girl, too, who would often come with her father to visit the restaurant. I could hardly believe how much time this family devoted to their restaurant. They also owned a seafood restaurant Sheila's father worked at most of the time. So they were doubly busy.
Sheila encouraged Aaron to accompany me to the market one afternoon so I could buy lipta--a substance that enhances the effect of coca leaves. This substance is not available in Ecuador.
Aaron was from the Peruvian Amazon, and his father was a Guide there. Aaron told me he planned to return to the Amazon and work as a Guide himself.
Silly me, I still believe the things Latin Americans say even though they often make promises they don't keep. No body means any harm; they are just including the listener in their fantasy life. I really thought we'd go out and meet Sheila's grandmother together! Ha ha. Well that never happened.
I planned my trip around staying long enough in Huancayo to meet Sheila's grandmother. Actually, I was tired from my previous traveling. And Huancayo was wonderful, so staying 10 days was well worthwhile, regardless. I liked that Sheila & her mom, Zoila, had lived in the US & Canada, & had some North American sensibilities. The food they served was good, and it was served quickly (unlike many restaurants in Peru).
After a few days, Sheila's welcome, and that of her mother Zoila, wasn't as warm as in the beginning. They were busy people, and worked all of the time. I obviously wasn't a wealthy American, the kind many Latin American people prefer. What did I have to offer this family, really?
That's the thing North Americans ponder, or at least I do. The Latin American culture of familial closeness is so opposite the culture I've grown up in. I've enjoyed every freedom in the world! So, I began to question why I ate breakfast every morning in their restaurant. I stopped going.
I understood that their lives were full & Sheila certainly had no intention of taking me out to the country to visit her grandmother. She was studying for her MA degree in Psychology & wanted to work with autistic children. I mentioned my own PhD in psychology & years of practice.
Its puzzling that for all of my independence I sometimes crave being part of a family. Members of this family seemed so busy & purposeful. Sometimes I feel as though I have no purpose at all. Yet I bet after being with this family a few days, if that really happened, I would run for the hills.
I thought of moving to Huancayo. I don't like living in Cuenca that much. There are no annoying Gringos living in Huancayo. Besides, Huancayo has beautiful parks & so many ruins to explore.
Sheila & I had the same birthday. I imagined a connection between Sheila, her family, and myself that was not there. Sadly, I left Huancayo without saying "good-bye" to Sheila or her mother.
While there was great beauty all around in Huancayo, the Plaza de la Constitución was closed for reconstruction during my visit. There was much Architecture that was simply unavailable to see. The two photos below depict some of Huancayo's beauty.
One of my best mornings in Huancayo I headed for the colonial town of Concepción, a town of contrasts. There were some beautiful parts of Concepción.
A taxi cab driver offered to take me to Santa Rosa de Ocopa for a sole. He said he would pick up friends on the way who needed to buy some feed for their animals. We all laughed & enjoyed ourselves so much. It was one of the best days of my trip.
I decided to treat myself out to dinner that night. I found out about the wonderful restaurant Huancahuasi by reading another blog you might enjoy, https://vidahuancaina.wordpress.com/
One of the last days during my Huancayo stay I visited Jauja, and the Laguna de Paca. The trip was a long one and the Laguna de Paca hardly worth my while. After all, I had previously viewed the very beautiful Laguna Nahuínpuquiro. The restaurant suggested by the cab driver was overpriced & the food was lousy. I regretted the day at Laguna de Paca, except that I met some special people there.
The best part of the day was getting to know a a couple of Peruvian tourists. They saw me eating alone & came over to join me. They expressed their happiness about meeting with an American woman. They paid a photographer to have their photo taken with me. I wanted to cry!
I was glad to return to Huancayo at the day's end.
Below is a photo of the train station, where I bought my ticket from Huancayo to Huancavelica. I paid 12 soles so I could sit in the buffet car. The other tickets cost 9 soles.
By the way, I never paid for cabs in Huancayo except for my first day there. They are expensive, at 5 soles a ride.
Luckily, a young woman told me how to catch a collectivo, which is a taxi that several people share. Fares are much less expensive, at a sole & 20 centavos. Also, there are combis that ply Camino Real.
Below is the exterior of Yalpana Wasi, Huancayo's Museum in memory of the thousands of indigenous people killed by the war between the military & the Sendero Luminoso during the 1980s and 1990s. The museum was closed because employees were at a governmental meeting.
Of course, there was no sign on the door or notification on line of this closure. A neighbor was the one who told me why the museum was closed. I find this kind of thing so typical in Peru (and Ecuador). Visitors of public places are simply unimportant in making governmental decisions.
I decided to visit the incredibly beautiful Parque de Identitad, in Huancayo.
OK, so later on I returned to the Yalpana Wasi Museum dedicated to Peruvians who lost their lives during the massacres of 1980's and 1990's. These are a tiny percentage of those who were killed.
There were many photos of the atrocities during the 1980's & 90's on display. These are 2 of them.
The museum itself was a beautiful structure. There were hardly any visitors. Employees sat in computer rooms, doing exactly what I don't know. They must have governmental connections that allow them such spiffy employment. I bet they are bored, though.
After visiting the Yalpana Wasi, I emerged from the combi and walked down Calle Cajamarca. I witnessed Peruvians selling hats, tee shirts & all manner of memorabilia commemorating Peru's standing in the World Cup competition. They were to host New Zealand in a Soccer match that very evening. And in fact, Peru beat the New Zealand team, 2-0.
It's a marvel that a country riddled with PTSD also experiences such great communal joy. Their soccer team, having beaten New Zealand, is set play Russia this summer for the World Cup.
I took a combi out to see Torre Torre, and view Huancayo's Parque Cerrito de Libertad on one of my last days. I confess never having actually climbed the geological formations at Torre Torre. The views from the area, and from the Cerrito de Libertad were outstanding.
People were always helpful when it came to catching the right combi to where I needed to go. I only needed to ask! Help was always available.
Below is a photo of the Hotel Olimpico, an expensive hotel in the central part of Huancayo. The restaurant is supposed to be good. It is expensive, of course, & I didn't eat there. There's a restaurant & hotel named "Susan's" in the central part of town. I tried the restaurant & it was slow, very slow.
However I did eat several times at La Lena, a chain restaurant with lower prices. I ate there even after saying I would never go back, because the restaurant is ubiquitous. Their food & service were OK.
I recommend the Sol y Mar, on Cajamarca, which is only somewhat expensive. I ordered a sudado which was out of this world. It was a Sunday afternoon & men drinking beer predominated. No one took any notice of me except for the wife of the restaurant owner, the Cashier. She was wonderful.
I stayed at the Hostel Shelter a whole week! The hostel was rather sterile, yet my days were so full I just wanted to crash when evening came. The WIFI here, in contrast to previous locations, was terrific. The bed was big & comfortable, Everything was brand new. Also the Shelter is located on Cajamarca, near the center of town. The cost was 40 soles or about $12 nightly.
Abdon, the owner, insisted on asking all of the usual questions. Like why wasn't I married, & where were my children. He was unhelpful when asked the simplest of questions, like what did he think about the restaurant across the street. Much of the time the hostel was empty. Most of the guests at the Shelter came on the weekends from Lima. Fortunately Cecilio, Abdon's Employee was terrific.
Another great thing about the Shelter is that it was located nearby the Fería Dominical. Many artisans at this weekly Sunday market commute from towns as far away as Ayacucho & Huancavelica to sell their products here. Some of these artisans have won awards for their weavings, carvings & jewelry. I went several weekends, and enjoyed myself immensely. I even sat down at the same food stand with Emilio, the Guide for the tour of Arwaturi, Chongos Bajo and Warawillka.
One of the best days of my whole trip was the morning I took the Macho Tren to Huancavelica. This train, unlike the one to Cusco, is affordable to local passengers. The price for open seating is 9 soles, or about $3. I paid 13 soles, or about a dollar more, to sit in the Buffet car. The Buffet car was equivalent to first class seating, as I was to learn. I felt like a rich person.
The Macho Tren follows along the beautiful Rio Mancaro.
Little did I realize I was sitting in the lap of middle class luxury until I left the Buffet car. What a difference a dollar makes in Peru! I walked back to the restroom, located in the train car to the rear. Multitudes of brown skinned Peruvians were draped over one another, a sight I'll never forget. Their jaws dropped as they viewed me, an older white skinned person with white hair. As far as they were concerned, I might as well have come from another planet. And I felt like I could have been in India.
Huancavelica is a pretty town, with a beautiful town square & several impressive Cathedrals.
Below is St. Anthony Cathedral, constructed in 1608.
Below is the Iglesia San Sebastián on the Plaza Bolognesi in Huancavelica.
My first day in Huancavelica I walked to the town of Sacsamarca. As I hiked along a river, I witnessed Indigenous people scampering up the hill, their backs laden with sticks of wood. They were so nimble, & impressive.
A short while after embarking on this road, two men in a Mining Corporation vehicle picked me up and took me right to the mining headquarters. This is a very old mine, yet it is still operational.
These men said goodbye, saying I could head down past the mine's headquarters and easily arrive back in Huancavelica within an hour.
Luck was with me, however. Another truck with another pair of Mine employees gave me a ride to the old mercury mine at Santa Barbara. I am the daughter of a Mining Engineer. Hence my need to see every mine in Peru possible.
This dog was crazy about his human. I've never seen a happier dog. Dogs are so true, and it can be lonely for a dog alone in the mountains.
This Mercury mine is known as the Mine of Death because Spaniards forced Indigenous people to labor here. The average working life of these men was only 2 years. Many died before the age of 30. Not only was mercury poisoning a factor, but collapses inside the mine were frequent. The bodies of the miners were thrown into mass graves as though their lives were meaningless.
The Viceroy de Toledo of Spain negotiated contracts in 1572 which allowed the opening of the Mine at Santa Barbara. The 4th largest deposit of mercury in the world is at this Mine. Mercury is needed for the metallurgical process of producing silver ore. Production from the Santa Barbara mine meant that Spanish shipped galleons full of silver back to Spain.
The Santa Barbara mine is at 4200 meters above sea level. The elevation at Cusco is 3399 meters & at Machu Picchu the elevation is just 2430 meters.
This is what remains of the Cathedral at the old town known as Santa Barbara. It retains its former elegance. Its red & white details are reminiscent of the Cathedrals of Huancavelica.
The two men were unloading wood scraps for storage. They told me they would need the wood to build fires for their community Christmas celebrations.
There were two men in the truck, one was the Driver, and he ordered the Indigenous man around. The Indigenous man did all of the work yet he didn't seem unhappy. As stated previously, I've never seen a dog more excited to greet a man. When the truck drove up that dog gave chase and greeted the Indigenous man enthusiastically. The memory of that dog chasing the man is exhilarating.
Alpaca grazed on the hills all around us. It was a gorgeous sight, on a beautiful day.
Yet work was being done. These construction workers greeted us with good humor, telling me to watch out for the mining company employees in the truck.
Being near to so many vicunas was one of the best experiences ever.
Miraculously, at the end of the trip to the Santa Barbara Mine, I met a woman named Celia. We went to lunch together. She told me that her mother had died 3 years ago. Then her husband died the following year. Her 3 adult children are at University in Lima.
Celia was frank about her loneliness & grief. I was almost embarrassed by her vulnerability. Yes, I admitted, I often feel alone. After our time together Celia came to mind often. I'll always remember her, because my grandmother's name was Cecelia. Celia asked me to lunch because I was alone! There are no coincidences. Huancavelica would be the town I'd move to, I realize, if I move to Peru.
I loved staying at La Portada. Cesar, the owner, was terrific. I paid 40 soles night and had a room on the courtyard. I slept very well although Peruvian men got up at 5 am & played the radio loudly. I figured, what can I do? I'm in Peru, at a hotel, surrounded by Peruvians.
Cesar helped me get a ride to Ayacucho for 50 soles so I didn't have to take the night bus. What is it with Peruvian buses & their night trips? I'm not a fan.
My only regret is that I did not buy an alpaca sweater in Huancavelica. I went to a store on Avenida Manchago Muñoz where beautiful alpaca sweaters were priced at $60. I wish I could knit as well as the women in the area do.
I don't know why I don't have photos of the wonderful women selling their handmade bufandas, mittens, leg warmers & other knit ware near the Plaza de Armas. They were sitting on the ground on a tarp in front of their handmade masterpieces, many of them made from pure alpaca.
Some vendors came from surrounding villages, such as Yauli. I bought several items & was so happy. I wear the bufanda I bought in Huancavelica all the time & receive many compliments.
I asked Cesar if he lived in Huancayo before living in Huancavelica. He said he grew up in Huancayo. He is raising his own family in Huancavelica, and loves living in Huancavelica. I had so many miracles in Huancavelica. Yes, somethimes I think I'd like to live there myself.
The pretty building below housed Huancavelica's Museum.
This is the car we took from Huancavelica to Ayacucho. I paid the driver 50 soles for the trip.
Marino was my chauffer from Huancavelica half of the way to Ayacucho.
We only went to the town of Acobamba with Marino. Then we waited for another hour while a driver named John gathered the people he needed to make his drive profitable.
Below is one of the passengers on our trip.
After arrival in Huanta I took yet another ride to Ayacucho. I finally made it to Ayacucho about 4 pm. We dropped several thousand meters in altitude. I was unprepared for how much warmer it is in Ayacucho than Huancavelica.
I told the young woman at the desk my plans were to stay in Ayacucho for a week and I would be much more inclined to stay in this hostel if I had a larger room. She was able to make a phone call to obtain permission for me to stay in a much nicer room for 5 soles more.
Below is Ayacucho's archeological museum, Museo Histórico Regional Hipólito Unanue.
This small restaurant was a pleasure, and several employees of Ayacucho's museum in memory (Museo de Memoria) of those who died during the 1980's & 90's were eating there when I arrived.
Below is the Monasterio de Santa Teresa de las Carmelitas Descalzas, which stands adjacent to the Templo Santa Teresa.
For a very good blog post about Ayacucho (reading this young woman's blog posts helped me a lot), I recommend https://blueskylimit.com/ayacucho-peru-exploring-the-colonial-city-of-huamanga-and-ayacuchos-artesania/
Above is my photo at the Mirador de Acuchimay, located above the Barrio Carmen Alto. This is said to be the highest point in Ayacucho. All of the red roof tops (reminiscent of Cusco) can be seen.
This well known craftsman made sales to the visiting Limeños.
Below is the Arco del Triumfo, which separates the business section (El Centro) of Ayaucucho from its more residential section.
During the 1960's Lima was a city of 1,000,000 people and now it is a city of 14,000, 000. Many of the people who moved there are Indigenous people from Huancayo, Huancavelica & Ayacucho (and surrounding areas) who sold their land for pennies to the rich because of being terrorized by Peru's military, as well as the Sendero Luminoso.
Somehow the story told about what happened during these years doesn't ring true. Indigenous people lost the dignity of living on their land, only to live in Lima in poverty. I'd like to know the real story.
I spent a day at Ayacucho's nearby Wari (Huari) site. A young woman who was an architecture student in Lima helped explain many of the structures. Only about 1% of the Wari (or Hauri) site has been excavated. Furthermore, the location was used by the Sendero Luminoso for their headquarters during the 1980's and 1990's, stalling excavation efforts.
Often one reads of the colonial churches of Huamanga. Yet Huamanga was the capital of the Wari (or Huari) empire, a pre-Inca culture developed through military conquests and road networks. The Wari site is located about 30 minutes from the city of Huamanga and sits at 9000 feet in altitude.
Archaeoligical remains show how the Wari protected themselves behind huge walls of stone & mud. The Wari culture is much older than the Incan culture, and lasted longer. Between 600-1100 AD, 50,000 inhabitants resided here. Panoramic views over the valley are amazing & dotted with cacti.
The Wari Culture was very advanced for its time whose influence is felt in half of Peru. These people produced magnificent textiles and ceramics that are housed in museums throughout the country. Unfortunately, not much has been done to investigate & excavate their capital city in Ayacucho.
Workers, possibly Graduate Students at one of Peru's Universities, were helping reconstruct the site. I took these photos while they were on lunch break.
The village of the Wari people occupied about 2,000 hectares and there were many streets, walled temples, royal tombs, hidden court yards, and buildings up to 6 stories high. Most of the buildings were covered in white plaster, and the city shone in the sun.
The young architecture student I viewed this site with made a point of showing me this ancient tree, in the middle of our walk way.
These are scenes from the Pampa de la Quinua where The Battle of Ayacucho was won. This battle was decisive for Peru, (and all of South America), winning its independence from Spain. An obelisk seen above memorializes The Battle of Ayacucho.
I enjoyed an almuerzo at a food stand, then caught a mototaxi back to Ayacucho.
The very next day I took myself to the ruins at Samsamarca. Little did I know that I would be on a combi with 15 women, all of them speaking Quechua, for 3 hours on the ride there. The combi left Ayacucho at 6 am.
On arrival I scrambled down this hill, not really knowing where I was going.
This large playing field was well used by the community later in the day.
At least I found the Piedra de Vaticino. The upper part is a carved hole, and a channel emerges. The channel emerges into five diamonds then ends in a single channel. It is assumed the stone was used for ritual purposes; to forecast good & bad years, as well as the happiness or marital failure of Inca nobility.
I was still lost. Should I go right or left? The locals all spoke Quechua. I thought maybe I'd over reached myself at last. The road was muddy & no one wanted to speak Spanish.
Thankfully I turned left, which was the right direction to the ruins. Once I arrived, it all seemed so obvious. This was one of the rare occasions I didn't do much research prior to my trip.
I knew I'd arrived when I came upon this statue of Túpac Yupangui.
These beautiful gardens are tended to regularly and form part of Vilcashuamán's center.
Next is the Main Plaza at Vilcashuamán.
The administrative center at Vicashuamán consisted of the Templo del Sol, the Templo de Luna, and an Usnu, or ceremonial pyramid (see below).
The long rectangular structure with five trapezoidal doorways was Túpac Yupanqui's palace, known as Kallannka.
This stone archway opened to the fields.
This grave yard is behind the Usnu, or ceremonial pyramid.
At Vilcashuamán one is surrounded by a town living on top of and within ruins. This is the perfect realization of the old and new coexisting so evident in Peruvian culture.
I returned to Ayacucho in this van, which stopped at the Plaza de Armas in Vilcashuamán.
Below is Ayacucho's Cathedral, on the Plaza de Armas.
The Mercado in Ayacucho is just outside the Arch of Triumph.
Beautiful Cathedral in Ayacucho.
I took the photo below of Ayacucho's Plaza de Armas from my balcony chair at Via Via, a popular restaurant where I enjoyed several meals.
Ayacucho's Cathedral, again. I may be getting these Cathedrals mixed up.
I visited the museum dedicated to Andres Avelino Caceres, Peruvian war hero who served as President of Peru 3 times. His statue turned up in this blog previously, in a town outside of Huancayo. There wasn't much to this museum, except that it is housed in a beautiful colonial building.
One day I visited the Mercado Artesanal shosaku Nagase, located where Avenidas 9 de Diciembre and Garcialaso de la Vega meet Avenica Quinua. I bought a fine weaving there.
Below is a photo of Independence hero José Antonio de Sucre in Ayacucho.
Flying from Ayacucho to Lima, then to Piura, was big fun. The first leg of the trip from Ayacucho was the best. A kindly professor sat next to me. He knew about the troubles of the 1980's & 90's, saying many people he knew were killed. He explained some things to me. He had a window seat & let me sit there. He pointed out all of the lagoons I'd visited and places I'd toured.
The whole trip I only had to sit in Lima for one hour! The Lima airport is not very big, so it was easy. The ride to Piura was surprisingly full. Lots of Limeños like to vacation on the beaches of northern Peru. Piura was unexpectedly expensive, & I couldn't find a hotel to stay in for less than $25.
I've been in Piura previously & didn't remember it as being an expensive city. However, Piura, like Trujuillo, has been through a lot with all of the flooding that happened March 2017. Prices are probably higher now. I spent just one night in Piura then took an early morning bus to Mancora.
I did enjoy a day at Punta de Sal, where wealthy Limeños have 2nd homes. The beaches there are spectacular.
However, I was tired of traveling. I really didn't want to spend a week at the beach. There is a bus that leaves Mancora for Cuenca. It's an overnight bus, but I've been across this terrain before. The cost, 70 soles, wasn't cheap but it was worth the convenience to me.
If this blog update seems a little long (I thought so) there's a blog written by someone who rode the whole way from Huaraz to Huancavelica, and through out Peru on bicycle. This blog has some of the most beautiful photos of Peru I've ever seen. The site is http://www.whileoutriding.com/south-america/peru/looking-back-at-el-silencio
That's all for this blog update. Looking forward to my next big trip, which I think will be Bolivia!
Can't say that I am always thrilled to be living in Cuenca, Ecuador. I lived in the Dominican Republic for 2 years & was the only educated white woman living in a poor section of Santo Domingo. Nearly every one else living there was staunchly Catholic (or Evangelical) and Black.
Possibly I am living in a town where there are so many expats my age to compensate for being lonely in the DR, although Cuenca can be problematic. Often I think I'd like living in Peru. But the problem with Peru is Lima. I'll see where destiny takes me, and in the meantime, I'll travel!
Thank you so much for reading this update & hope you enjoyed it. I learned as much from the experience of writing this blog than I did on my trip.
Can hardly wait to go traveling again! I'll keep you posted.
